As a cheese lover, I was delighted to be invited to Barwheys Dairy in Ayrshire to learn how the  award winning Barwheys cheese is made. Each week, owner and cheese maker, Tricia Bey along with her small team make no more than 45 truckles of the hard Ayrshire cheese, using milk from the Dairy’s own special herd of pedigree Ayrshire cows.

Tricia with her award winning Barwheys Cheese

Tricia’s skills in cheesemaking were quickly recognised and within two years of production starting Barwheys Cheese was an award winning cheese with Golds at the 2012 at the Royal Highland Show and the Prestigious British Cheese Awards. Success continued in 2013 with another Gold and the award for Best Speciality Cheese Made in Scotland at the Royal Highland Show.

Unlike many commercial brands of cheddar, Barwheys Cheese is truly a handmade cheese and it was a fascinating experience to be a part of the cheese making process at every stage. Cheese making is a craft with many factors affecting the the process and throughout the day I was enthralled watching Tricia work. It was clear that  despite the scientific elements involved, such as temperatures and acidity, Tricia’s experienced hands and intuition played an enormous part in bringing the milk to the stage that would go on to make this high quality cheese.

Like all cheese making the process starts with milk and at Barwheys,  the milk is delivered directly into the dairy from Tricia’s herd of Ayrshire cows.  Milk from the Ayrshire cattle breed is known for it’s superior creamy rich quality, making it ideal for cheese making, resulting in the long complex flavour and creamy texture of Barwheys cheese. Of course, there are natural fluctuations in the volume of milk available from the herd  and Summer milk differs in quality to Winter milk. During the Summer months the cows graze outside on the lush grass in the countryside around the dairy and in Winter that changes as they are housed and fed indoors.

From the Barwheys herd, straight to the dairy

Barwheys Cheese is unpasteurised and with the milk delivered, Tricia got straight to work,  heating the milk and adding the starter culture, to start the production of lactic acid in the milk. The acid is needed to create the conditions required for the addition of the rennet  enzyme at the next stage.  Although I had a very basic understanding of cheese making I had little idea of how important the acidity would  prove to be in final cheese. 

 Rewinding from the start of the cheese making process, my first task of the day was to help bandage the cheese that had been made two days earlier. These had been in the cheese press and it was time for the next stage, bandaging in traditional cotton cheesecloth. After a quick but informative lesson from No 2 Cheese maker Alison, and under her watchful eye,I managed to successfully bandaged a few of the large truckles. From there, the cheeses are transferred to the store where they are looked after by colleague Angus during  the ripening process. The truckles mature on wooden shelves for between 12 and 18 months, before being sent out to hotels, restaurants , specialist cheese shops and delicatessens throughout the country.  A small number of truckles are matured for longer and produce the the wonderfully complex Barwheys Beastie which is usually destined for Burns Suppers throughout Scotland and beyond.

Cheery Glasgow Cheesemonger, George Mewes, helps bandage the cheese.

With the starter process well underway, Tricia moved onto the next stage of adding the rennet to the warm milk. Even with my basic knowledge of cheese making, this is a fascinating stage of the process to watch as the rennet acts on the milk to form the curds. As well as being responsible for the coagulation of the curds during the early stages, the enzyme in the rennet also has a direct effect on the changes in the texture of the curd and the flavour, both during the manufacture and storage of the cheese. The change from milk to curds starts to happen quite quickly and it was during that stage of watching and listening to Tricia that her intuitive skills as a Cheese maker were so apparent.

Despite the use of a thermometer and an acidity meter, I could instinctively see that I was watching a true craftswoman at work. Yes, the science was important but so was the experience of the Cheese maker,  hands on, the touching and watching the milk and curds during the process. The rate and  action of the rennet is controlled by rate of the acidity and the temperatures achieved during these early stages. Acidity will also contribute to the flavour of the finished cheese. I could see that this was not a definitive process. The recipe was the same, the milk was from  the same herd, Tricia was making cheese in the way she always did, but the acidity levels were developing slowly that day.

There could have been numerous explanations for this,  possibly even the presence of a stranger in the room. I knew from my own breadmaking experience different environmental factors, even the weather, can have an  influence on the alchemy of  proving and making bread. Cheese making was proving that it could be just as tricky.

Regardless of how fast or slow the curds progress, the processes involved in making the cheese follows a set order. Once the curd had set, it was onto the next stage of ‘Cutting’. The cutting at Barwheys Dairy is really the only mechanical part of the process and two very sharp cheese blades make short work of the task. The cutting separates the whey from the curds and this is followed by ‘Scalding and Stirring’. Every stage is important to the process and temperature and acidity levels are continually monitored as this will determine the final moisture content of the cheese. Scalding involves gently heating the curds and whey until the final temperature is reached and while this can affect the acid level, with the finished cheese in mind, it also allows the Cheese maker to control the acid development.

No 2 cheesemaker Alison and colleague Angus prepare the milled curds for the next stage

Discussions between Tricia and Alison about the acidity levels, relentless checking of the curds, and their highly skilled experience of previous cheese making  sessions, led to the next stage, ‘whey off’, separating the curds and whey. The nutritious whey is not wasted.  It goes full circle and is returned to the farm  as feed for the cows.

The next stage, is known as ‘cheddaring’, the curd is piled into blocks on each side of the vat and cut into blocks. For the next few hours the the curd is turned and piled and this really was hands on and quite a strenuous task, but it made the term ‘handmade’ all the more real. It was interesting watching the changes in the curd texture as it changed to become more homogeneous. This was alchemy at it’s very best, but I was in no doubt that Tricia’s expert hands had ensured the curds safe progression to this point.

The continual turning and piling of the curds continued and as the texture changed and the correct acidity level was finally achieved. The large mats of curd had reached a rubbery consistency, almost like dough and the next stage was in sight. I should add, that at that point, I pledged to never eat a piece of Barwheys Cheese without saluting the incredible skill and effort of Tricia and her team as they produce this fantastic handmade cheese.

With the texture and the acidity level correct, the next stage of ‘milling and salting’ the cheddared curds began. The mats of curd were milled to the required size, salt was added and mixed through, again a task that is done by hand.  The final stage had arrived and the salted curd was packed into large lined moulds to be pressed and shaped.

Cheddaring and salting the milled curds before moulding and pressing

We were back at where we started, although the compressed curds would remain in the press for a  day or so to form the cheese. Once removed, like the start of my day, the bandaging would take place and batch 129/13 will spend the next 12 months in the store maturing. The batch will be ready to go out for sale next Christmas, and I’m hoping it will be in a nearby cheese shop. Please watch out for it and if you’re fortunate enough to taste my batch, please let me know what you think. Meanwhile, if you’re planning a cheeseboard, then I recommend a nice piece of  mature Barwheys Cheese.

The 2014 Scotlands Speciality Food Show opens today and runs until Tuesday 21st January at the SECC, Glasgow. The show is Scotland’s largest and oldest trade fare and attracts food buyers from throughout the country.
130 specialist food companies, many of them small producers will be showcasing some of the very best fine food products.
If you’re a food business, delicatessen, farm shop or speciality food store looking to stock fine quality food products, the show is the place to find it.

Being a lover of fine food and great champion of small producers, in particular, Scottish produce, I’ve put together a snapshot of some of my favourites. These are all exceptional food products that I guarantee your customers will love. One of these producers, Mr C’s Handcrafted Pies won Best Product Award at last year’s show.

Mr C’s Hand-Crafted Pies
The award winning Scottish pie company, Mr C’s Handcrafted Pies has a range of 10 pies, all made to the same exacting standard with quality ingredients. Outdoor bred pork, Scottish wild venison along with outstanding handmade pastry,are just some of the ingredients used to make these delicous pies.

Just this week, Mr C’s were awarded 4 awards at the 2014 Scotch Pie Awards. Diamond for Haggis, Neeps and Tattie, Gold for Scottish venison Pie, Silver for Apple Pie and Bronze for Pork and Chorizo with chilli.

Mr C’s Handcrafted Pies is on stand N45. Owner, Robert Corrigan will be on hand with a full range and delcious samples of the pies.
www.mrcspies.co.uk

Summer Harvest Oils
Perthshire based Summer Harvest Oils, is one of Scotland’s top rapeseed oil producers. From their base at Fernyfold Farm, in the Perthshire countryside, Mark and Maggie Bush, produce a fantatsic range of oils, dressings, vinegars, and mayonnaise.

New for the show is Summer harvest Chilli and Red Pepper Dressing. A rapeseed oil based product that is ideal for salads, chicken, fish and BBQs.

Earlier this year Summer harvest was named as an approved SRA (Sustainable Restaurant association) supplier, making them the only approved cold rapeseed oil supplier in the UK and only the second SRA food supplier in Scotland.
The Oil currently holds two Scotland Food and drink Excellence Awards and two Gold Star Great taste Awards.

Summer Harvest products are a must have in my kitchen and the full range will be showcase at the fare. You’ll find Mark and Maggie on stand N31.
www.summerharvestoils.co.uk

Border Biscuits
There’s nothing quite like a nice quality biscuit when you sit down to a cup of tea or coffee and Border Biscuits is the one for me. I’ve reviewed their biscuits, tasted all the different varieties and they never fail to wow on flavour and quality.

There’s a wide range to choose from and Border really do have a biscuit to suit every taste.
The classic recipes include, Fruit Tea biscuits, Devillishly Dark Chocolate Cookies and Light Buttery Viennese.
In the Deliciously Different range, you’ll find, Strawberry and Cream Shortbread, Chocolate and Orange Shortbread and Toffee Apple Crumble.
There’s an Outrageously Tasty Range with Yoghurt, Cranberry and Pumpkin Seed Crumbles, Red Berry Rascals and Raspberry, White Chocloate and Pistachio Crumbles.
Border biscuits will be on stand K27.
www.borderbiscuits.co.uk

Wee Fudge Company
If it’s a luxurious sweet treat you’re looking for then stop by and speak to Joyce Brady, owner of The Wee Fudge Company. The company’s delicous fudge is available in a range of indulgent flavours, including, Hebridean Sea Salt and Caramel, White Chocolate with Sicilian Lemon Extract, and Raspeberry & White Chocolate.

Unlike massed produced fudge found on sweet counters, every batch of ‘Wee Fudge’ is handmade by Joyce from a favourite and traditional Scottish recipe, using only the freshest ingredients.
Joyce tell me that she has has been developing some new exciting flavours of fudge and these will make an appearance at the show.
If you want to taste the new flavours or indeed all the varieties in the Wee Fudge range, then visit Joyce on stand LG46.
www.weefudge.co.uk

For further information on the 2014 Scottish Speciality Show see www.scotlandsspecialityfoodshow.com

Gift vouchers for cookery course always make good Christmas gifts but if you’re budget doesn’t run to that then this cookery course in a box is the perfect alternative.

A great gift for a food lover

The idea was developed by Yasmin McDonagh, of Scotia Spice, who runs authentic Punjabi cookery courses at her  home in Balfron, just north of Glasgow. She had been asked about writing a book but after listening to comments from people who attended her courses, the cookery course in the box was born. Many commented on the number of cookery books they owned but rarely cooked from them or had all the ingredients for the recipes. Unlike the gift of a cookery book, the box contains all the spices and a chilli jelly to cook 6 punjabi dishes.

Everything you need to cook Yasmin’s soul food

Priced at £20, there are 3 ‘Cookery Course in a Box’ to chose from, chicken, lamb or vegetarian, each with a different selection of recipes.

Yasmin has given me the chicken course to cook and I’m looking forward to writing about that in the New Year. However, I watched and listened as she cooked cook up three delicious meals from the lamb box. In a very short time she produced 3 really flavoursome Punjabi dishes, Keema Lamb, potato & pea curry and a classic cucumber raita. Yasmin was right when she described the dishes as real family food and winners on affordability and taste.

As she cooked, referring to the various dishes as her soul food, Yasmin talked with great passion about  learning to cook with her mother and grandmother. She really cooked from the heart, and spoke at length about the ingredients,  describing the benefit of each spice as they were added to the pan.

A demo from Yasmin on how to cook food that wins on flavour and affordability

There are also three course options to chose from at Scotia Spice:

Full day – £130. Start with a spice workshop, learning about the spices and how to use them. Followed by  cooking 6 punjabi recipes which you will take home along with the recipes and a selection of spices.

Half day – £75 Start with a spice workshop and cook 3 Punjabi recipes which you will take home along with a selection of spices.

Introductory session – £30. This session will give you a taste of what Scotia Spice offers. After the spice workshop you will cook one dish which you will take home along with a selection of spices.

Numbers are restricted to 3 on each session, allowing Yasmin to guide you through the practical parts of the session.

For further information see www.scotiaspice.co.uk or contact Yasmin – info@scotiaspice.co.uk

Telephone 01360 449399

People often ask, what do you get the person who has everything? My answer is usually food and drink or some kind of experience based on just that. If you know their likes and dislikes, it’s an ideal gift and depending on your budget, there’s a lot to choose from. Food Hampers or gift baskets, are popular gifts at Christmas and let’s face it, so simple as all you have to do is chose and someone else will do all the work, wrapping and delivering. There’s a large number of companies selling hampers but it can be difficult to be confident about the quality of the food unless you are familiar with the contents.

A hamper selection that caught my eye at a recent Christmas food festival was this year’s luxury range from Scottish company, Tasting Scotland. Owner, Brenda Anderson, and business colleague Nicky of Nicole Dalby, Flower & Design, have created a unique collection that hasn’t been offered before. Offering a fusion of fine foods and floral design, the hampers give great value by presenting two gifts in one luxury package. The combination of a Highland inspired handmade wreath along with a range of speciality food makes a truly luxury gift.

Brenda regularly works with many of Scotland’s small artisan food producers on Tasting Scotland’s food tours and for her, including their products was an essential part of choosing the contents for the hampers. No massed produced food, simply artisan in nature all the way. Nicky and Brenda also wanted the hampers to reflect Scotland’s rugged and romantic landscape while protecting the country’s environment. Using mainly natural and sustainable packaging, the hampers are beautifully presented in handmade wooden apple crates with some items like oils and vinegars in refillable bottles.

Each hamper contains a luxury handmade wreath and prices start at £50 for the Christmas Joy basket. Containing a selection of rapeseed oil, vinegar, Christmas pudding, oatcakes, cheese and most unusual addition of cooking hay with a recipe, it’s great value and makes a beautiful gift.

The Seasonal Scotland hamper at £59 contains a seasonal floral arrangement with a range of artisan teas and coffees.

Christmas Joy and Seasonal Scotland

There’s also the Festive Warm Wishes at £85 and the Luxury Greetings at £125. Both contain a wonderful range of food, including cheese, cake, biscuits, oatcakes, condiments and preserves.

There’s also the option to add a bottle of champagne or spirits , or chose the contents to make a bespoke hamper.

Festive Wishes and Luxury Greeting with top quality artisan products

For a full list of contents in each hamper and delivery/collection details see www.tastingscotland.co.uk

Tasting Scotland’s cooking classes, tours, breaks and holidays make the most luxurious of gifts? Gift certificates are also available and you can find full details on the website

If you’re heading to Partick Farmers market today, look out for the new face on the block. Renfrewshire artisan food company, Aye Love Real Food, are making their debut at the market. Owned by husband and wife team, Mark and Jacqui Davidson, they are no strangers at the Ayshire farmers markets, although this is their first visit to the Glasgow markets.

Using the best local Tamworth pork and Aberdeen Angus beef, they make a delicious range of Scotch eggs, beef pasties and stews. Their specialty, scotch eggs, come in a delcious range of flavours including, pork & haggis, pork & black pudding, and pork & chorizo. There’s also a special limited edition Christmas egg with cranberry and festive spices.Mark and Jacqui offer a variety of different stews and tomorrow’s special is their delicious pulled beef chilli. If you’re visiting the Partick market tomorrow, be sure to drop past Aye Love Real Food to stock up and try some of the tasty samples on offer

If you haven’t given any thought to Christmas dinner yet, there is still time to order from the local farmers and producers who produce some of the fantastic food that makes up the wonderful Scots larder. If turkey or chicken is on the menu then why not think about buying a locally produced bird. You will be rewarded with a bird with great flavour and you’ll also be supporting local independent business.

Turkey is always the choice for Christmas dinner in our house and we’ll be tucking into a bird from St Brides Farm in Strathaven, Lanarkshire.  It’s been a busy time on the farm, as poultry farmers Robert and AJ Morris prepare for Christmas, supplying some of Scotland’s best hotels and their regular customers at  Lanarkshire farmers markets.

Doing what nature intended, foraging on the farm

At St Brides, they select slow growing flavoursome breeds, that mature slowly, doing what nature intended, free ranging all day long, foraging and scratching around the farm. The slow growing bronze variety and more the gamey black turkey thrive in this free range setting. The birds are fed non GM grain and as a special treat they enjoy the mash from the nearby Strathaven Brewery. All of this allows them to happily grow at their own pace, promoting the texture and truly delicious flavoured bird.

There’s still time to order from St Brides, and if turkey isn’t for you, they also have ducks, guinea fowl and capons. This weekend you’ll find Robert and AJ at Lanarkshire’s Strathaven farmers market and next weekend at Hamilton (Sat)  and Clarkston (Sun).

Wandering free

For further information : www.stbridespoultry.wordpress.com  or contact morrisaj@rocketmail.com telephone 01357 529989

To find out more about Lanarkshire farmers markets: www.lanarkshirefarmersmarkets.wordpress.com