James Martin – Plates Mates and Automobiles

February 23, 2016 By Rachel Leave a Comment

James Martin

James Martin stepped out of the kitchen last night and onto the stage for the opening of his first live tour. The 35 date countrywide tour, Plates, Mates and Automobiles kicked off at Glasgow Royal Concert Hall and the ever popular celebrity chef was on top form. The fans were out in force and an enthusiastic crowd of around 2000 gave him a huge welcome.

TV show’s and books

It’s been 20 years since the young, fresh faced, bandanna wearing chef first graced our TV screens on Ready Steady Cook. Since then he has become a firm favourite with viewers and has gone on to present a number of highly successful shows including Saturday Kitchen, James Martin Home Comforts and Operation Hospital Food. He’s also the author of 15 best-selling and award winning cookbook.

If there were first night nerves they didn’t show and despite a few technical hitches the popular and down to earth Martin charmed the audience for over 2 hours in the cooking, talking and speed extravaganza.

A comical introduction on the big screen by comedian Johnny Vegas gave the crowd a flavour of what to expect; the expectation of more than just cooking was in the title, Plates, Mates and Automobiles brought three of the chef’s loves to life.

Sharing top billing in the mate stakes was his right hand man and sous chef, Chris Start. Between them it was a great double act with Start’s almost silent approach being highly entertaining. Martin spoke warmly of their long term friendship and as mates go it was clear that this was a good mate. As cooking demonstrations go it was well orchestrated between the two chefs, and, as the show got underway the pair comfortably maintained the upbeat routine with plenty of rousing cheers from the crowd. Nine recipes cooked up in two hours with plenty of added humour but interspersed with tales from his childhood and life as a young chef.

He was on form when it came to the food and hygiene police. The bane of his life apparently, a reference to the complaints he regularly receives on Saturday kitchen for not washing his hands. A witty and unhygienic on stage rebellion got the thumbs up from the audience.

Cooking and mates aside, cars, mainly fast cars are his other love and a quick spin on the video screen gave an insight into his world of Ferrari’s, Formula One racing cars and Mercedes. It was a peek into his expensive indulgences; the trappings of a successful career, but he also acknowledged the public and the viewers who have supported his career, particularly those who buy his books and cookware. The author of 15 best-selling and award winning cookbook, James also endorses several kitchen products including the James Martin saucepans and knives with Stellar Cookware.

Every show needs a good finale and Martin stepped out of his comfort zone to confirm that he was indeed a man of many talents. The audience had been promised a night of surprises and with pots and pans aside he ended the show on a musical note. James Martin as you’ve never seen him before. Guitar in hand, supported by another mate, his guitar teacher of several weeks. There was a song and although singing is obviously not his strong point, the audience loved his musical performance and even gave him a standing ovation. Very entertaining although after the musical finale giving up the day job will surely not be an option.

It was definitely a night of fun, the banter with the crowd was excellent and for a first live tour opening night, James Martin definitely served up success on a plate.

James Martin – Plates, Mates and Automobiles runs until 23rd March 2016.

Disclaimer. I reviewed James Martin, Plates, Mates and Automobiles on behalf of Stellar Cookware. Tickets for the show were provided. All opinions expressed are my own.

The Stockbridge Restaurant

June 3, 2014 By Rachel Leave a Comment

Being asked to review Edinburgh’s Stockbridge Restaurant was a real pleasure for me as Head Chef and proprietor Jason Gallagher is part of the Slow Food UK Chef Alliance, an organisation I wholeheartedly support. Jason is one of the 24 Scottish chefs in the alliance and has also been well recognised for his contribution in the hospitality industry with previous awards from the Scottish Chef Awards for City Chef of the Year, 2 AA Rosettes , Gold Award from the Edinburgh Restaurant Association and awards from Eat Scotland.

Jason Gallagher, Chef Patron at the Stockbridge Restaurant

All Chef Alliance members are encouraged to use seasonal and Forgotten Foods, whilst actively supporting the country’s small scale and good quality local producers. No problem with that at the Stockbridge, as both the a la carte and the set menus change regularly to reflect seasonality with clear references to the restaurants local suppliers on menus.

The Stockbridge is almost secretly located in a basement in Stephens Street in the popular and quirky Stockbridge area of Edinburgh and offers classically cooked food with a modern twist. The richness from the painted black entrance and fairy lights is carried through into the restaurant, where the black walls, with large mirrors and colourful artwork give an uplifting but rich and sumptuous feel to the room.

The rich and luxurious interior at the Stockbridge Restaurant

The black and gold decor with colourful artwork give the restaurant a rich lavish feel.

The staff were extremely welcoming and were more than happy to discuss the menu and answer my questions about ingredients and sourcing. The warm homemade bread served with a tiny jug of olive oil, flavoured with chives chervil and mustard was wonderfully moreish, a simple and delicious touch. The small and tasty amuse bouche of Serrano ham, Mozzarella and tomatoes that followed was equally tasty, so far, an encouraging start to our meal.

With both us being game lovers we both opted for for the spiced pigeon breast with duck liver pate. It was served with wild mushrooms, onions, pancetta and a red wine sauce. The pigeon was perfectly cooked, pink and moist well complemented by the earthy flavours of the other ingredients, making it a rich and flavoursome dish.

Our like of rich flavours continued with our choice of mains and neither of us were disappointed. My generously portioned moist and perfectly flaking grilled halibut was not overpowered by the Arran mustard sauce or the accompanying grilled pancetta, spinach and wild mushrooms. It was served with sauteed heritage potatoes, arranged like tiny standing stones and finished with a perfectly cooked soft quails egg.

Grilled halibut

Our other main of pork fillet wrapped in pancetta delivered equally on flavour. It was served with meltingly tender pork belly, cheeks, crispy ear, sweet potato and a delicious jus. Pork fillet can be quite uninteresting but this almost nose to tail dish had different levels of rich flavour and texture, with small nuggets of black pudding, making it an incredibly good meal.

The choices for dessert were never going to be difficult for us with two of our favourites among the combinations on offer, rhubarb crumble and chocolate brulee. Firstly, the mood was set with a pre dessert of Jason’s own passion fruit sorbet. The perfect palate cleanser after our meal, it was tart, tangy and exceptionally refreshing.

Of course, as you would expect our desserts were far more decadent and lush than just crumble and brulee. Rhubarb and nut crumble suggests a comfort pudding; one that would be perfect for my partner, but a more sophisticated hand had elevated the crumble to more of an elegant ‘pudding’. Served with a deliciously smooth and creamy vanilla sauce and praline ice cream, they were the ideal comfort partners.

The chocolate brulee dessert was more of a chocolate heaven and not the death by chocolate I thought I might be treating myself to. Served with a soft, moist and slightly gooey chocolate brownie, white chocolate mousse and milk chocolate ice cream it was light with sensational chocolaty flavours.

A heavenly chocolate dessert

Without a doubt our meal at the Stockbridge had all the ingredients for an exceptional meal. It ticked all the boxes, Jason’s affiliation to Slow Food’s Chef Alliance, the restaurants sourcing policy for seasonality and local ingredients and the star of the show, the food delivered what it promised, an informal take on fine dining.

The Stockbridge offers the perfect ambiance for a relaxing meal. For a small restaurant, I was impressed that it hadn’t been overfilled with tables, still allowing for a more intimate dining experience.

Both the a la Carte and the set menu offered a good balance of choices between meat, vegetarian and fish and diners can chose between both menus. The set menu offers excellent value at 3 courses for £24.95.

Photography credit – The Stockbridge Restaurant.

Jacques’ Table, Ayrshire’s Hidden Restaurant

May 15, 2014 By Rachel Leave a Comment

Stepping through the door of Jacques Table, a hidden restaurant in the Ayrshire countryside, you immediately sense the warmth. There’s a friendly welcome from Sylvia and a jolly ‘Bonjour’ from Jacques, the French chef in the adjacent kitchen. The hidden restaurant experience was not one I had enjoyed before and I was delighted to be invited to dinner at Jacques Table.

Jacques Troquet and Sylvia Brown have opened Ayrshire’s first hidden restaurant at their beautiful home in the former village school in Sinclairston. It may also be a first in Scotland to be run by a high profile classically trained French chef.

A warm welcome from Jacques and Sylvia

Jacques has worked in many top class Paris hotels and was previously Executive Chef at the French Embassy in London. Now semi retired, the couple offer a unique, high end dining experience on two evenings and 2 Sunday afternoons a month. Jacques’ table seats ten and can be booked individually or for private parties.

My partner in food for the evening was my friend Brenda Anderson from Tasting Scotland . We were joined by another four couples, for two, it was their second visit to the restaurant. And if the thought of dining with strangers worries you, within minutes of introductions, we found ourselves chatting with some very sociable people.

The restaurant is in the former dining hall of the old school building and the richly set long dining table looked quite at home outside the subtly shaded kitchen. This room had history and I did stop to think about some of the school dinners that the previous occupants had enjoyed. Certainly not of the standard we were about to enjoy. There is a classy but unfussy elegance about the room, plush carpets, neutral colours, flowers, a beautifully set table. It is their home, but there’s no feeling of being in their personal space.

Dinner, like most hidden restaurants, was a set menu and the suggested donation is £35. Diners supply their own wine.

We settled down on the comfortable sofas as Sylvia served complimentary aperitifs with a very generous selection of canapés. The lightest of pastry cases filled with aubergine caviar, tapenade on French bread and duck rillettes. There was also the most delicious talmouses, a blend of choux pastry filled with bechamel sauce and goats cheeses, wrapped in a light puff pastry. For me the pastry was a real winner, crisp short crust and buttery light puff . It quickly became the topic of conversation, discussions about how puff pastry could be so exceptionally good. With canapés of this standard, I had a feeling this was no ordinary supper club.

The meal started with a subtly flavoured Mise en Bouche of celeriac soup with brown shrimp. Served in a tiny espresso cup, it was velvety smooth and creamy, the brown shrimp being a nice addition.

The starter of cold terrine made with various prime fish in their own jelly with asparagus was cooked perfectly. There was just the right amount of jelly to hold the fish, bringing together some fantastic flavours and it worked perfectly with the asparagus.

The main of stuffed quail with duck liver baked in a rich red wine jus was dark and earthy, this was French classical cooking at it’s best. The tiny quail was cleverly stuffed with moist duck liver and generously served with fondant potatoes, glazed carrots and mushrooms. It tasted sensational, a marvellously rich and satisfying dish.

The Millefeuille dessert, like the canapés, showcased the chef’s expertise in pastry making. Slicing through the delicate layers of puff pastry, it flaked perfectly and was crisp and light, a real first class dessert. The creme patisserie added the perfect level of sweetness and tartness.

The wine brought by the guests to enjoy with dinner was set out on the nearby sideboard and Sylvia ensured the wine glasses were kept topped up throughout. I had asked wine merchant Pieter Rosenthal to match wine for the menu and he had recommended a Demi sec Vouvray. Slightly sweet with a crisp appley acidity, it worked well, powerful enough to stand up to the rich gamey flavours of the quail and duck liver without swamping the lightness of the dessert.

Clear plates and much praise from fellow diners was a sure signal that we had all enjoyed our meal and truly magnificent evening. It was rounded off with coffee and generous helpings of Jacques truffles and petit fours. Jacques and Sylvia were the perfect hosts. I was reminded of some of my trips to friends in France. In true French style, we chatted, lingered over our food, we relaxed. It had gone midnight, we had been eating for almost 5 hours and now the chef had joined us. There was still much to discuss, like how did he make that pastry?